Clutch Kit Replacement

Clutch kit replacement with the gearbox removed, including the release bearing, so the repair is done once rather than twice.

Pricing

Pricing varies based on your vehicle

Service Info

Typical Duration 6 hours

We confirm the clutch is at fault rather than the hydraulics or an oil leak, remove the gearbox, replace the friction plate, pressure plate and release bearing, inspect the flywheel and seals, then refit, bleed the hydraulics and road test.

Skip the garage, our master mechanics come to you

At your home or office
Fair & transparent pricing
6-month, 6000km warranty

The Most Trusted Clutch Kit Replacement

A clutch wears every time it is used, and it gives clear notice before it fails: the bite point creeps higher, the engine revs climb without the car accelerating, and there is often a smell after a hill. A clutch kit replaces the friction plate, the pressure plate and the release bearing together, because reaching them means removing the gearbox and nobody wants to do that twice. Michanic assesses the clutch at your home or office and carries out the replacement.

Why Choose Our Clutch Kit Replacement Services?

  1. Confirmed Before Dismantling:
    Slipping can also come from a leaking rear main seal contaminating the friction plate, or a hydraulic fault. The cause is established first.
  2. Replaced as a Kit:
    Friction plate, pressure plate and release bearing are renewed together. A release bearing left in place is the usual reason a clutch job is repeated.
  3. Flywheel Assessed:
    The flywheel surface is inspected while it is accessible. A scored or heat damaged flywheel will destroy a new clutch quickly.
  4. Honest About Scope:
    This is a major job. You are told what it involves and how long it takes before it starts.

Why We are the Best Choice for Clutch Kit Replacement

  • Seals Checked:
    Crankshaft and gearbox input shaft seals are inspected while access is open, because oil on a new friction plate ruins it immediately.
  • Hydraulics Considered:
    A tired master or slave cylinder gives the same symptoms as a worn clutch, and is far cheaper to fix if it is the actual cause.
  • Correct Kit for the Vehicle:
    Clutch specifications vary by engine and gearbox, including dual mass flywheel applications that need particular care.
  • Road Tested:
    Bite point, pedal feel and the absence of slip under load are all verified before the car is handed back.

A slipping clutch does not simply stop working one day. As the friction material wears away it generates increasing heat, which is what eventually damages the flywheel surface and, on dual mass flywheels, the springs inside it. That turns a clutch kit into a clutch kit plus a flywheel, which is a significantly larger bill. Driving on a badly slipping clutch also leaves you unable to pull away on a hill, and the failure typically completes itself in traffic rather than somewhere convenient.

Frequently Asked Questions

  • How do I know my clutch is worn?
    The clearest sign is slipping: engine revs rise without the car accelerating, especially in higher gears or uphill. A bite point that has crept near the top of the pedal and a burning smell after hills confirm it.
  • How long does a clutch last?
    It depends enormously on how the car is driven and where. Heavy stop-start traffic and hill starts wear a clutch far faster than open road driving, so anywhere from around eighty thousand to well over two hundred thousand kilometres.
  • Why is the release bearing replaced with the clutch?
    Because reaching it requires removing the gearbox. The bearing costs very little compared with that labour, so leaving an original bearing in place risks repeating the entire job for the sake of one part.
  • Does the flywheel need replacing too?
    Only if it is scored, heat damaged or, in the case of a dual mass flywheel, has excessive play in its springs. It is inspected while the gearbox is out, and the decision is based on measurement rather than assumption.
  • Can a slipping clutch be adjusted instead of replaced?
    On older cable operated clutches an adjustment can restore correct operation if the slip is caused by incorrect free play. Modern hydraulic clutches are self adjusting, so genuine slip means the friction material is worn out.