Ignition Switch Replacement

Mobile ignition switch replacement at your home or office, for keys that turn with no response or cut out while driving.

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Service Info

Typical Duration 1.5 hours

We test voltage at each key position to confirm the switch rather than the barrel, immobiliser or starter is at fault, remove the column shrouds with the airbag system isolated, replace the ignition switch, then verify every key position and the systems each one feeds.

Skip the garage, our master mechanics come to you

At your home or office
Fair & transparent pricing
6-month, 6000km warranty

The Most Trusted Mobile Ignition Switch Replacement

The ignition switch is the electrical component behind the key barrel that actually feeds power to the starter, the fuel system and the dashboard. It is not the lock you put the key into, and that distinction matters: a key that turns freely while nothing happens usually means the switch behind it has failed, not the barrel. Michanic replaces ignition switches at your home or office.

Why Choose Our Mobile Ignition Switch Replacement Services?

  1. Switch, Barrel or Immobiliser:
    A no start has several possible causes in this area, and they differ greatly in cost. Testing identifies which before anything is removed.
  2. Cutting Out Is Dangerous:
    A worn switch can lose contact while driving, shutting the engine down and taking power steering and brake assistance with it.
  3. No Tow Needed:
    A car that will not start cannot be driven anywhere, which is exactly when a mobile repair saves the most.
  4. Column Shrouds Handled:
    Access means removing steering column trim without breaking clips or disturbing the airbag clockspring.

Why We are the Best Choice for Mobile Ignition Switch Replacement

  • Tested Under Load:
    Voltage is checked at each key position under actual load, which is how an intermittent switch is caught rather than guessed at.
  • Airbag Precautions Taken:
    The steering column houses the airbag clockspring. The system is isolated correctly before any trim comes off.
  • Key Retained Where Possible:
    Replacing the electrical switch usually leaves your existing key and barrel untouched, so no reprogramming is needed.
  • Every Position Verified:
    Accessory, ignition and crank positions are all tested, along with the dashboard, wipers and lights on each.

An ignition switch that is wearing out rarely fails cleanly. It usually starts as an intermittent fault, where the car occasionally does nothing when the key is turned, or the dashboard flickers. The dangerous version is losing contact while driving: the engine stops, and with it the power steering and the vacuum assistance for the brakes. The car remains steerable and stoppable, but both take far more effort, and the sudden loss of assistance at speed catches drivers out. An intermittent no start is worth diagnosing early for that reason.

Frequently Asked Questions

  • What is the difference between the ignition switch and the key barrel?
    The barrel is the mechanical lock the key goes into. The switch is the electrical component behind it that feeds power to the starter, fuel system and dashboard. A key that turns freely with nothing happening points at the switch.
  • Why does my car start sometimes and not others?
    An intermittent no start commonly indicates worn contacts inside the ignition switch, though a failing starter, a poor earth or an immobiliser fault produce the same symptom. Testing under load is what separates them.
  • Can a bad ignition switch stall the engine while driving?
    Yes, and it is the most serious failure mode. The switch loses contact, the engine shuts down, and power steering and brake assistance are lost immediately, which is why an intermittent fault should not be left.
  • Will I need a new key if the ignition switch is replaced?
    Usually not. Replacing the electrical switch normally leaves the lock barrel and your existing key in place, so no cutting or reprogramming is required. Replacing the barrel itself is a different job.
  • Is it the ignition switch or the immobiliser?
    If the dashboard lights up normally and the engine cranks but will not fire, suspect the immobiliser or fuel system. If nothing at all happens when the key is turned, the switch is much more likely.