Tune-up – The tune-up has been obsolete for decades. On late model vehicles with computerized engine controls, there is nothing to “tune” or manually adjust. Major engine functions such as idle speed, the fuel mixture and spark timing are all controlled electronically by the powertrain control module. In spite of this, many people still call changing their spark plugs and air filter a tune-up, when in fact what they are actually doing is scheduled preventive maintenance. Platinum and iridium spark plugs typically last upwards of 100,000 km’s, and air filters can often go several years or 30,000 km’s or more depending on driving conditions and dust exposure.
Chassis Lubrication – Some trucks may have grease fittings on the ball joints, tie rod ends and U-joints. The same goes for some heavy-duty aftermarket replacement ball joints, tie rod ends and U-joints. But on most late model cars and light trucks, the original equipment steering, suspension and drivetrain joints are all sealed for life and do not require any lubrication or service.
Fuel Filter – Replacing the fuel filter every few years or 30,000 to 50,000 km’s may be recommended for preventive maintenance, but many motorists have never had a fuel filter replaced! Unless you get dirt or rust in your fuel tank, the fuel filter should last for years or tens of thousands of kilometers. Many late model cars and light trucks no longer even have a recommended fuel filter replacement interval. Instead, they have a “lifetime” fuel filter located inside the fuel tank as part of the fuel pump assembly. Unless your vehicle is experiencing a fuel delivery problem, therefore, there is no need to replace the filter.
Wheel Alignment – Accurate wheel alignment is essential to minimize tire wear and to keep your vehicle traveling straight. If your vehicle has been experiencing unusual tire wear, your wheels may need to be aligned. But if the tires are wearing normally and your car steers straight with no pulling toward either side, there should be no need to have the wheels aligned. Most tire stores recommend a wheel alignment check when you buy new tires. But if your old tires do not show abnormal wear and they lasted at least 60,000 miles, chances are your wheels are still in alignment. Once set, wheel alignment should not change unless steering or suspension parts are worn or damaged.
Engine Flush – An engine flush circulates a cleaning chemical through the engine to remove sludge, varnish and other contaminants. If you have neglected regular oil changes and your engine is full of sludge, this would be a recommended service. However, if you have changed your oil regularly, and your engine shows no signs of abnormal deposit formation, there should be no need to have your engine flushed.
We always dread taking our car in for a service or worse a repair for that funny noise its making. You never know how much you are going to end up paying for car repairs. And, are you being overcharged?
Why Labour Rates Are So High
The labor rate in most dealerships and repair shops today ranges from R 900 to over R 1200 per hour. Why so high? Because it’s expensive to run an auto repair business and the labour rate includes not only the mechanics hours but all the overhead expenses. These include the cost of the building and property, taxes, utilities, insurance, employee benefits, etc. Repair facilities also have to spend significant amounts of money each every year on equipment, scan tool updates, information access and other costs that are necessary to repair today’s cars. i.e a good diagnostic tool will set you back around R30 000.
Total Cost of Car Repairs
Besides a high labour rate you also need to assess what work is being done. Many car owner are taken advantage of on when it comes to the extent of the ‘recommended repairs’. Car shops make good margin on the parts they sell and some less reputable shop will try sell customers unnecessary repairs to enrich themselves. These are the guys that give the industry a bad name. Pirated parts are another avenue that you need to be aware of.
So, make sure that your replacement parts are OEM approved and always ask for your old parts so that you know it’s been replaced. Many wearing car parts are not actually made by the OEM’s. They will typically use well know manufacturers such as Bosch, Continental, Ferodo etc and just have a i.e BMW logo put on or OEM serial number. You can get the exact same part for less from the after sales parts market, but beware of pirated parts.
Consequently, when a shop quotes what seems like a very high price to change a relatively simple part, it may seem like they are attempting to take advantage of the situation and are overcharging for the repair. Maybe they are tying to rip you off, maybe not. Every situation is unique.
Michanic Offering
What we can say though, is that Michanic was founded with intention of making car ownership more affordable and convenient. Our ‘come to you’ mobile strategy takes away a chuck of the overheads associated with running a car service and repair shop. This means that not only is our service convenient but it is also at an affordably price point. Also, our upfront non-discriminatory pricing provides complete transparency. This ensuring fair pricing for all customers. You know you’re not getting charged more based on what you look like, or how little you know about cars.
We understand that your car plays an important part of your daily life, transporting you and your loved ones. Michanic is dedicated to providing the most convenient services for our customers, so if you have any other questions or concerns regarding your car, feel free to talk to our customer service team through email at [email protected], or by phone on 087 803 9000.
If any of the above warning lights come on while you are driving, DO NOT IGNORE THEM! Immediate action may be necessary to prevent damage to your car, a breakdown or an accident. See below for more detail on the warning light that is showing on your dash:
OIL PRESSURE WARNING LIGHT
The oil pressure warning light comes on if your engine has lost oil pressure or oil pressure is too low for safe engine operation. Pull over, turn the engine off and check the oil level on the engine dipstick once cool.
Possible Causes: Low oil level (due to oil consumption or leaks), oil viscosity too thin, worn oil pump, excessive engine bearing clearances or defective oil pressure sending unit.
If you engine is also making ticking, clattering or rapping noises, it is not getting sufficient oil. If you attempt to drive the engine in this condition, you will probably damage it – if it hasn’t already suffered major internal damage.
TEMPERATURE WARNING LIGHT
The temperature warning light will come on if your engine is overheating. Do NOT continue driving if your engine is overheating as this can cause expensive engine damage (piston scuffing, valve stem galling, failed head gasket, cracks or distortion in cylinder head). Stop driving, pull over and shut your engine off. Open the hood and check the radiator and heater hoses, radiator and engine for coolant leaks. Note the level of the coolant in the coolant reservoir.
CAUTION: DO NOT open the coolant reservoir or radiator cap until the engine has cooled off for at least 30 minutes. Steam pressure inside the cooling system can blow out and burn you!
If the coolant level is low, add coolant (a 50/50 mixture of antifreeze and distilled water).
Possible Causes: Low coolant level (due to coolant leak or bad head gasket), stuck thermostat, bad water pump, broken serpentine belt, defective radiator cooling fan, clogged or dirty radiator, exhaust restriction (plugged catalytic converter).
CHARGING SYSTEM WARNING LIGHT
The “GEN” or “ALT” warning light, or an icon of a battery will illuminate if the voltage of your battery is low. You do not have to stop immediately, but you may only have 20 to 30 minutes of driving time before your battery goes dead and your engine stops running (or even less time if you are driving at night with your headlights on).
Possible Causes: Broken or slipping serpentine belt or V-belt, bad alternator, charging control fault, or loose or corroded battery cables.
Open the hood to see if the alternator drive belt is intact and is turning the alternator while idling. If the belt is not the problem, chances are the charging system has a problem that will have to be diagnosed and repaired. It’s always best to have a qualified mechanic take a look.
BRAKE WARNING LIGHT
The Brake Warning light will come on if the parking brake has not been fully released, but it may also come on if the brake fluid level is low or there has been a loss of hydraulic pressure in one of your car’s brake circuits. Loss of fluid or brake pressure means the brakes may not be able to stop your car when you step on the pedal.
Carefully apply the brakes to see if they are working. If they are, pull over to the side of the road, open the hood and check the fluid level in the brake master cylinder. Should the fluid level be low, the brake system should be inspected for leaks. If there are leaks, your brake system is unsafe to drive.
If the brake pedal is low or goes to the floor, pumping the pedal may apply enough pressure to stop your car. Failing that, apply your parking brake to slow your vehicle. Also, take your foot off the accelerator and shift to neutral, or downshift and use engine braking to slow your vehicle if you have a manual transmission. If all that fails, aim for something soft like a bush or open field.
Possible Causes: Loss of brake fluid due to leaks (master cylinder, calipers, wheel cylinders, brake lines or hoses), failure of the pressure differential switch that activates the brake light, parking brake pedal or handle not fully releasing, defective parking brake switch.
WARNING: If the brake pedal feels soft, is low, goes to the floor, or you have to pump the pedal to get your vehicle to stop, your vehicle is unsafe to drive. You should have it towed to a repair facility for repairs.
TPMS LIGHT
The Low Tyre Pressure Warning Light on your car’s dash will come on if any tyre on your vehicle is underinflated. Driving with an underinflated tyre can be dangerous and increases the risk of blowout. A low tyre can also cause uneven braking, uneven traction, uneven and rapid tyre wear, increased rolling resistance and high fuel consumption.
Find a petrol station, and check the pressure in each tyre with an accurate gauge. Inflate your tyres to the recommended pressure (see your owners manual or the tyre inflation decal on the driver door panel or glove box). For most passenger cars, the recommended pressure is typically 2.2 to 2.5 bar.
Possible Causes: Loss of air pressure due to a leak (such as a nail or small puncture in a tyre, or a bad valve stem), loss of air pressure due to seepage (0.1 to 0.2 bar per month loss is normal for many tyres), or inaccurate or failing TPMS sensor in tyre.
Check your tyres regularly – at least once a month or before any long road trip. Do this when they are COLD and BEFORE you’ve driven far.
If you are having trouble diagnosing your warning light, book and inspection with Michanic and we will send out a trusted mechanic to solve your problem. We understand that your car plays an important part of your daily life, transporting you and your loved ones. Michanic is dedicated to providing the most convenient services for our customers, so if you have any other questions or concerns regarding your car, feel free to talk to our customer service team through email at [email protected], or by phone on 087 803 9000.
Car vibration, either from the engine or or through the steering wheel is a serious issue that requires immediate attention. Here are the 4 most common reasons to answer the question for why my car is vibrating:
1. Tyre Issues
Tyre issues are one of the most common reasons why your car may be vibrating. Your tyres may be unbalanced, have uneven wear, or be misshapen (‘out of round’). All of these issues can cause vibrations due to the asymmetrical movement of your car’s wheels. A simple tyre balancing or rotation can solve some of these issues. But if there are issues with the tread or if they are out of shape, you will need to replace them. We recommend inspecting the tyres as a first step when diagnosing why your car is vibrating.
2. Bent Brake Disks
Your brake disk is what the brake pads bind to when stopping. And your brake pads won’t grip properly is the disk is worn or bent. So, if the vibration becomes more intense at higher speeds, and there’s a burning smell after driving, bent brake disks are likely the cause of the vibration.
3. Wheel And Suspension Issues
Wheel issues are another common cause of car vibrations. If your wheels are not correctly fitted to your axle the wheel will wobble and vibrate at higher speeds. There are a myriad of potential causes for wheel issues, but the most common are loose wheel bearings, loose lug nuts (imagine that!), or loose ball joints (the point at which your axle meets your wheel). Also, with age a car’s suspension becomes weak or soft and this can also be the reason why your car is vibrating.
4. Faulty Axles
Your car’s wheels are constantly turning through the axle of your car. So, if the car’s axle is bent (a common issue after collisions) the uneven rotation can cause your car to vibrate at high speeds. A repair often means a full axle replacement, which can be costly.
The best course of action to diagnose why your car is vibrating is to have your car inspected by a qualified mechanic. You can book and inspection online now with Michanic.
We understand that your car plays an important part of your daily life, transporting you and your loved ones. Michanic is dedicated to providing the most convenient services for our customers, so if you have any other questions or concerns regarding your car, feel free to talk to our customer service team through email at [email protected], or by phone on 087 803 9000.
Everyone has that one friend whose 1998 Honda Civic still runs like it’s brand new. But how do they do it? And how can you? Follow these 5 tips for extending your car’s life and you will spend less on repairs, and get extra mileage from your car!
1. Consistent oil changes
Infrequent oil changes are the number one cause of engine wear and tear, caused by friction within the engine. Most vehicles should get an oil change every 5,000 to 8,000 km, but every car is different. Check your owner’s manual to find your car’s schedule or shoot us a message in our chat and we’ll help you out.
2. Don’t ignore small problems
All cars have signs of aging – your steering might feel off, or you might hear a noise when you turn on the AC. But these small issues can turn into expensive major repairs if gone unchecked. So, avoid this with regular inspections of your car and sort out all the minor issues.
3. Monitor your air filter
Your car’s mileage can be drastically reduced if your air filter is not replaced when necessary. Although many mechanics “up-sell” air filters, they can be important to replace when at the end of their lifespan, which is typically 30,000 to 50,000km. Air filters may last longer if you don’t drive on unpaved roads.
4. Keep your fluids topped up
Besides oil, your car uses transmission fluid, brake fluid, power steering fluid, and coolant. Your car will perform worse, and can even be damaged, without proper fluids. Our mechanics can change each of these fluids for you, or even top them off while doing another repair.
5. Check your tyre pressure
Low tyre pressure can adversely impact your fuel consumption and vehicle handling. Recommended tire pressure can be found on the label inside your driver’s side door. Your tire pressure should be within 5 PSI of this measurement.
We can guarantee that by following these 5 tips for extending your car’s life, your vehicle will last longer and you will get more mileage. So take action now and tick off each item. If you need a minor repair, oil change or a service book a trusted mechanic online now with Michanic.
We understand that your car plays an important part of your daily life, transporting you and your loved ones. Michanic is dedicated to providing the most convenient services for our customers, so if you have any other questions or concerns regarding your car, feel free to talk to our customer service team through email at [email protected], or by phone on 087 803 9000.
Brake problems are some of the most common issues on cars. Reduced stopping distance being the biggest issue. But braking issues don’t stop there, there are lots of signs that indicate if something is wrong with your brakes. Brake problems are usually accompanied by squeaking and grinding sounds and car vibrations. Sometimes the brake pedal will feel very hard to press down, and other times there may be no brake pressure at all.
Finding out what is wrong with the brakes can be tricky. There are, after all, lots of parts that can go wrong. But here are 5 easy checks you can do to try diagnose your braking problem:
1. Check Brake Performance
Listen for any noises when you’re braking. Any squealing or grinding noises can be due to issues with the brakes. It may just be that the brake pads have worn down too much, or that the discs have not worn evenly.
If you feel a shudder when braking it is likely that your brakes have worn unevenly. The discs may for example have warped due to excessive heat build up. This can have a knock on effect on other brake parts and needs immediate attention.
2. Check Noise When Driving
If you’re driving and not braking and you still hear a scraping noise continuously then there is a chance there is also something wrong with your brakes. It could be that the brake pads have not returned to their normal position after braking. Often it means that a brake caliper has seized and that it continues to push the pads against your discs.
3. Check Brake Hydraulics
Checking the brake pedal can help to find out if there are any issues with the hydraulic system which power the brakes. It’s important that the brakes engage long before you press the brake pedal to the floor. If the brakes only start to kick in late on and they feel spongy then it’s likely you have a problem with the hydraulics. In that instance there may be air in the system.
If you brake hard and you feel that the pressure on the brake pedal slowly decreases, then it’s likely that there may be a leak in the system. This ‘sinking pedal’ issue could mean that the master cylinder or a brake hose is leaking somewhere.
4. Check Brake Discs
The brake discs are usually visible through the spokes in your wheel. When checking them look out for any grooves and ridges or uneven surfaces. The discs should be flat and smooth. If they are not, they might have suffered from scoring. Worn brake pads will be the cause of this. It’s important to get this repaired as soon as possible to prevent further damage to the discs and to stay safe.
5. Check Handbrake
Last but not least make sure to check your handbrake. It is vital in ensuring that your car can be locked in place when stationary. If you have to pull the brake handle higher than usual then it’s likely that the tension on the cable is off. Often readjustment is needed or new brake shoes.
If your car has brake problems, it’s always best to have a trusted mechanic check it out. Michanic has a team of specialist mechanics who come to you. We understand that your car plays an important part of your daily life, transporting you and your loved ones. Michanic is dedicated to providing the most convenient services for our customers, so if you have any other questions or concerns regarding your car, feel free to talk to our customer service team through email at [email protected], or by phone on 087 803 9000.
Click here to get an online quote to replace your brakes.
Did you know that most experts recommend checking your engine oil at least once per month?! when was the last time you checked yours? Engine oil is super important as it acts as a lubricant that prevents the engine components of your car from damage cause by friction as they move around. Here’s how to check your engine oil level in 4 simple steps:
1. Turn off the engine
Make sure the engine is cool so you don’t burn yourself and so that the engine oil has settled. Ensure that it has been off for at least 10 minutes and is cool. You’ll also need to make sure that your car is parked on a level surface.
2. Locate the dipstick
Pop open the bonnet, and look for the dipstick. The dipstick is a long rod which goes deep into your engine and usually has a brightly coloured handle.
3. Clean the dipstick
Wipe any oil off the dipstick with a clean cloth or rag.
4. Check the oil level
Stick the clean dipstick back into the tube, and ensure the end reaches the bottom, then pull the dipstick back out again. There will be an upper and lower mark on the dipstick, the oil level should be between these two marks. If it’s below or on the lower mark, you need to top up your oil to risk causing any engine damage. If you engine oil is dirty (dark black) consider replacing it.
Some cars have a digital oil check function in their cars and no longer use dip sticks. Different cars access the oil levels from the dash in different ways. If your car does not have a dip stick, check your car manual to see how to check your engine oil or book a trusted mechanic now to come have a look for you.
We understand that your car plays an important part of your daily life, transporting you and your loved ones. Michanic is dedicated to providing the most convenient services for our customers, so if you have any other questions or concerns regarding your car, feel free to talk to our customer service team through email at [email protected], or by phone on 087 803 9000.
